This is too much of a bargain not to offer… in skilled hands that is just what Barbera can be. I have a parcel of 2012 Barbera d’Asti, La Crena, Vietti at £135 per 6 bottle in bond.
Jancis Robinson states that ‘No grape has known such a dramatic upgrade in its fortunes and image in the last 20 years than Barbera in Piemonte, north-west Italy’ and it would be hard to disagree. Traditionally, Barbera was planted on sites that did not suit Nebbiolo – they tended to be the cooler sites as Nebbiolo demands warmer conditions as it is late to ripen. When Barbera is grown on sites that actually suit it and pruned carefully to control its vigour and yield, much more concentrated and interesting wines result. In an ideal location, it is a variety that has a bright acidity to offset the potentially generous fruit. It is light in tannin which allows it to drink relatively early and the best producers employ oak ageing as oak itself is a source of tannin and can lend to the structure of the wine.
We have worked with Vietti for some time now; the estate is now widely regarded among the top tier of Piemontese producers and justifiably so. It may be their Barolo that steal the headlines, but Vietti actually produce five different Barbera, so it is fair to say that they take this underrated variety seriously. The ‘Barbera La Crena’ – which I offer here – comes from a single vineyard in Aglianico d’Asti, planted way back in 1932. A key to this wine’s success is the low yields offered by old vines. Barbera can deliver up to 70 hectolitres per hectare but from Vietti’s La Crena vineyard it typically delivers 25 hectolitres, which explains this wine’s concentration. After fermentation, the wine spends 16 months in oak barrels as well as in larger Slovenian oak casks. This serves to round out the wine, taking the edge off of the acidity and lending some valuable tannin. For me, the results are often spectacular.
I tasted at the estate in the autumn and was impressed by the depth of fruit. It is packed with dark cherry, damson-like fruit, blackberry too with background hints of vanilla and toast. It is a sleek, expressive wine with a surprising rich core of fruit without losing the freshness that is typical of the variety. Frankly, it is all too easy to drink in its current form, though it would undoubtedly age for five or six years if desired. I tend to prefer this style of Barbera when the fruit is youthful and expressive as you may well have gathered from these notes!
2012 Barbera d’Asti, La Crena, Vietti
94+ points, Antonio Galloni
£135 per 6 bottle in bond
The 2012 Barbera d'Asti La Crena is racy, explosive and drop-dead gorgeous. There is an element of energy in the 2012 that is impossible to miss. The 2012 isn't a huge La Crena (although there is plenty of richness) but it is one of the more refined versions of this wine I can remember tasting. Bright veins of salinity and minerality support the hugely expressive finish. This is a fabulous vintage for La Crena. Drink 2014 to 2027.
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