Sometimes it pays to wait and sometimes you miss out. Simon says that it was the latter sentiment that drove habitual buying of Bordeaux En Primeur. Yet, in the last four or five vintages, the benefits of patience have been clearly demonstrated.
I have a strong recollection of the 2010 vintage of La Chapelle de La Mission which I tasted during my first En Primeur campaign after founding Atlas. It is always an impressive tasting at La Mission or Haut Brion. Trade groups are directed to either one of these neighbouring Châteaux to taste the full range of wines from both; whites, reds and second wines, as well as the newly acquired St. Emilion estate, Quintus.
Despite the stunning nature of the Grand Vin of La Mission and Haut-Brion – both of which rank amongst the finest vintages for each Château – my attention was drawn to the second wine of La Mission, namely La Chapelle de la Mission. In past years, La Chapelle was always a decent wine but lacked precision and vibrancy and was sometimes marred by astringent tannin. Not so in the 2010 vintage in which it echoed the character traits of the Grand Vin; brooding dark berry, mulberry with classic tobacco and earthy notes. I was taken by the density and poise. I could not recall a vintage of La Chapelle that had impressed me to such an extent. In short, a classic Graves and a second wine at that! It was firmly on the list of targets for the vintage.
As struck as I was by the wine – which I regarded as the finest vintage of La Chapelle – I was non-plussed by the release price in Spring 2011. It was released at near £1200 per case of 12 in some traditional quarters and at £1000 per 12 with more competitive players. The price would have to fall to re-engage my interest.
It did fall as the market for 2010 lost ground with release prices over-egged by Château proprietors. The graph below highlights what has transpired since release and underlines the value of waiting.
In a vintage in which the entire Haut-Brion stable excelled, La Chapelle de La Mission has won a number of impressive plaudits itself. Aside from the critics’ notes below, Jancis Robinson MW commented that only on the wine’s finish did you become aware that it was not the Grand Vin. Stating that ‘the fruit goes on and on,’ she termed this vintage ‘pretty special stuff.’ Each critic has suggested that the wine will be entering its drinking window from 2018 which tallies with my own note.
I have included the tasting notes and scores from Robert Parker, Neil Martin and James Suckling below. For the record, James Suckling rates the Grand Vin as a perfect 100 and his score for the second wine places it way above the Grand Vin of many notable Châteaux.
James Suckling, 96 Points
Fabulous nose of spice, mushrooms, blueberries and blackberries follows through to a full body, with firm tannins and a silky tannins. This is so savory and beautiful. Best second wine ever from La Mission. Give it until 2018 to open, but hard to wait.
Robert Parker, 93 points
The 2010 La Chapelle de la Mission, which includes the production from the now-extinct La Tour Haut-Brion vineyard, is a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, which is a high percentage for the latter grape. Fleshy, succulent and opulent along the lines of the 2009 (which did surprise me ), it is a big wine, with boatloads of glycerin and a classic Graves character of scorched earth, burning embers, charcoal, and plenty of black cherry and black currant fruit. The glycerin level is high, the fruit level impressive, and the purity and texture endearing. Drink it over the next 15 or so years.
Neal Martin, 92 points
Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion 2010 has a relatively simple bouquet with dusty black fruit, suggestions of an attic stacked with old furniture. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, plenty of dusky black fruit laced with black olive and a citric note joining towards the finish. Fine structure, quite grippy, but the finish is more promising than the start, leaving you with a positive impression.
We are pleased to be able to offer 2010 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion at £745 per 12 in bond.
NB: A quick look online shows that many established merchants still list stock at around £1000 per 12 in bond and none offer at a price that is sharper than the above.
As you might expect, we have a very limited parcel of La Chapelle available to offer to our clients at this price.