Simon has commented on various occasions about the value offered by the wines of lesser known growers in Champagne. We are often puzzled by clients loyalty to a particular Grande Marques; despite the consistency of style, there is invariably more excitement to be had elsewhere and greater value to be found.
I first tasted the wines of Guy Charlemagne four years ago with a client who shared a bottle of 1996 ‘Le Mesnillesime.’ Despite my trouble in pronouncing the name, I was seriously impressed by this exquisite Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) Champagne from Mesnil-Sur-Oger. All of the fruit used for this cuvée comes from a Grand Cru classified site and the quality on shows certainly lived up to the billing.
Guy Charlemagne cultivates just 15 hectares of vineyard, principally in the villages of Oger and neighbouring Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. The pick of his range is undoubtedly ‘Le Mesnillesime’ (try saying ‘Le May-nil-les-eem’). Partially fermented in old, oak barrels, this is a low dosage Champagne that once bottled, is matured in the cellars for six years before release. I have since re-tasted the 1996, the impressive 2002 and more recently, the 2004. I should add that this cuvée is only made in the finest vintages. All three of these Le Mesnillesime stand out for their class and purity, exemplifying subtlety and race of truly fine Blanc de Blancs.
Please see my note below.
2004 Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnillesime, Grand Cru, Guy Charlemagne
The aromatics here capture discreet notes of patisserie as well as freshly baked bread and fresh, zesty citrus fruits. Revealing a taut palate underscored by a vibrant, lively acidity, this vintage impresses for its mineral-infused, crisp appley fruit. Those same patisserie characters are carried forward with a fruit that shows fine breadth, richness and complexity. This is a Champagne of considerable subtlety and finesse. It is the purity and precision that really impress on the lingering, mouth-watering finish. Now showing its class, the 2004 is ready to roll yet could evolve over the next few years. Drinking 2014-2018+