Simon believes that there has always been some logic in exploring the wines of the lesser known Bordeaux châteaux owned by prestigious groups or families. The more cynical amongst us may claim that such properties benefit unduly from the reflected glory of the famous château, whereas Simon would actually maintain that quality needs to be high as there is a degree of reputational risk.
Take Château Clerc-Milon, for example, which was acquired by the Rothschild family in 1970. At the time it was languishing in relative obscurity but it now benefits from the same winemaking expertise as Château Mouton-Rothschild. This Fifth Growth's star has been in the ascendant and offers significant value with hardly a vintage breaching the £500 per case of 12 mark.
Its lack of recognition is surprising as Château Clerc-Milon abuts the vineyards of both Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton-Rothschild in the heartland of Pauillac. By Médoc standards, the vineyard is fully mature comprising vines averaging over 50 years of age, which exceeds that of either of its more illustrious neighbours. The Rothschild’s ongoing investment in Clerc-Milon has undoubtedly paid off; the Château received significant critical acclaim in 2000 and has continued to impress since this vintage.
We have secured a parcel of magnums of the underrated 2004 vintage which is drinking in its prime today. Interestingly, we bought and sold a parcel of this vintage in bottles a couple of years ago at almost an identical price; the Bordeaux market’s softness has permitted us a chance to offer these magnums at the very same price.
I find Clerc-Milon to be a relatively easy wine to taste from barrel. In stark contrast to most Pauillac – which comprises 70-90% of the more assertive Cabernet Sauvignon – Clerc-Milon has almost always followed a more even blend between Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The whopping 42% of Merlot in the 2004 vintage gives the wine a softer, more mouth-filling character, adding juicy, dark plum and damson notes to the cassis and graphite nuances so typical of Pauillac Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 2004 vintage was a mixed one; in order to deliver full ripeness, it was necessary to allow Cabernet Sauvignon a couple of weeks’ maturity beyond the Merlot harvest, which took place at the end of September. Those who harvested their Cabernet on the early side produced thinner, more austere and even greener wines. In the Médoc, this was the major determining factor between success and failure in the 2004 vintage.
2004 Clerc-Milon is not the wine of the century – or the decade for that matter – yet it shows fine complexity and punches well above its weight. Every time I have had the opportunity to open a bottle, I have been impressed by the purity and extrovert, juicy fruit quality. It is not a wine to tuck away for another decade; I would personally drink it now and over the next two to three years while it has balance between vibrant fruit and evolving complexity.
In terms of critics’ endorsements, few have tasted it recently so there is not much value in Robert Parker's June 2007 note, but it is included below for completeness. I have also included James Suckling’s note from July last year, which to my mind gives a more accurate indication. I think that the 2004 vintage would surprise those who made early judgements based on a barrel sample if they were to re-taste today.
2004 Château Clerc-Milon, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac
£480 per 6 magnum case in bond
NB. Given magnums evolve more slowly, 3-4 years may be added to the recommended drink dates below if the wine stored in the correct condition.
James Suckling – 92 points, June 2013
A polished and very beautiful wine with blueberry, currants and light mint character. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. All in finesse. So lovely now.
Robert Parker – 90 points, June 2007
This outstanding effort displays loads of cassis fruit interwoven with notions of espresso roast, white chocolate, and menthol. It possesses a terrific front end, good mid-section, and moderately high tannin in the finish. Approximately 15,000 cases were produced. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.