The resurgent Morey-Coffinet estate must surely be one to watch, with the thoughtful Thibault Morey in charge.

Thibault took the helm at Domaine Morey-Coffinet in 2001, though he had been working there with his father Michel for some years already. The domaine itself is a result of the marriage of two established Chassagne families, with Thibault’s grandparents being Marc Morey and Fernand Coffinet. Thibault moved the estate to organic viticulture and he espouses biodynamic practices too. An increasing number of the vineyards are worked by horse while sheep roam between the vines for a few weeks in the autumn to tidy up after harvest! Larger barrels as well as amphorae are increasingly used, all with the aim of allowing the fruit purity and vibrancy to be fully expressed.
 
Thibault has crafted a beautiful set of wines in 2022 which show pure fruit and wonderful balance, not just in the whites but also in the reds.
 
In terms of the reds, Les Chaumes comes from two parcels of 50 year old vines and displays elegant red fruit and a balanced mineral length while the Clos Saint Jean is from a 0.2 hectare plot behind the family home at the top of the village. It was originally an orchard but was planted with Pinot Noir in the 1970s. In the words of Jasper Morris: Great choice! The fruit is attractively pure with a sensual finesse and unobtrusive tannins.
 
The whites show silky textured, fresh fruit characters and a similar elegance and persistence. Across the range these are outstanding in 2022, from the subtle fruit of the village Chassagne to the more expressive, concentrated core of Les Houillères, the mineral presence of En Caillerets to the old vine intensity of La Romanée.

Please see below for my notes on the 2022s from last month's visit.

Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Les Chaumes 2022
£210 per 6 bottle case in bond
Subtle red fruits on the nose lead into an elegantly flowing palate showing good concentration and a mouthwatering fruit quality. The finish sees a gentle mineral cut with the clay evident in a pleasing roundness that is nevertheless notable for its finessed length. Drink 2026-2032 (ROM)
 
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1^er Cru Rouge, Clos Saint Jean 2022
£360 per 6 bottle case in bond
Beautifully scented red fruit on the nose, floral and fine. The palate shows the same fruit quality, flowing, silky, poised and pristine. Texturally cushioned and caressing with a finish that accentuates the purity and finesse in its fine limestone, white stone presence and persistence. This is very good. Drink 2027-2035 (ROM)
 
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 2022
£245 per 6 bottle case in bond
Really pure, vibrant citrus and orchard fruit quality. While there is a sense of Chassagne breadth on the nose, the palate shows beautiful tension and a subtle but long finish. There is a gentle mineral edge, but this is all about pristine, juicily fresh fruit, a silky mid-palate and fine length. Drink 2025-2032 (ROM)
 
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Houillères 2022
£300 per 6 bottle case in bond
From a stony plateau next to Puligny where two thirds of the vines are 60 years old, this site yields a wine that shows expressive pear and peach fruit, so pure and fresh. The old vine concentration makes its presence felt in a concentrated core of fruit and long, wonderfully grippy and long finish. Drink 2025-2034 (ROM)
 
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1^er Cru, En Cailleret 2022
£390 per 6 bottle case in bond
Quite closed on the nose when tasted as it had only been bottled the previous week. Typical of the domaine’s wines, a profound and pure fruited core gradually emerged. The mid-palate is silky and cushioned, giving way to a finish that is remarkable for its mineral energy and tensile poise from the limestone soils of Caillerets. Very long with ripe fruit and exquisite balance. Drink 2027-2035 (ROM)
 
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1^er Cru, La Romanée 2022
£435 per 6 bottle case in bond
This comes from a single plot planted in 1957. Also bottled the previous week so slightly in its shell but in the glass it starts to display its concentration and a reductive touch. On the palate there is an appealing breadth of fresh, ripe orchard fruit and the old vine concentration asserts itself underpinned by a mineral power that is currently fruit encased. Drink 2027-2035 (ROM)
 
Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Puligny-Montrachet 1^er Cru, Les Pucelles 2022
£630 per 6 bottle case in bond
Incredible purity and intensity here with an almost piercing, riesling-like lime fruit concentration on the nose. White flowers too. The palate is beautifully linear and focused with a fine mineral drive and direction. Towards the end, the fruit reasserts with juicy citrus notes yet retaining a delicate floral touch and an elegant, poised length. Drink 2026-2035 (ROM)

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