It was in early 2017 that we first visited Jean-Pierre Latour (pictured above) at Domaine Latour-Giraud, a domaine that was born in 1958 from two estates, one of which dated back to the late 1600s. Jean-Pierre himself began working with his father in the mid-1980s and then took sole control a decade later. The domaine extends over eleven hectares and is 85% white, with a range of fine premier cru in Meursault. They are blessed with one of the largest holdings – over two hectares – in the benchmark premier cru of Les Genevrières. Viticulture is organic and the winemaking approach traditional, but flexible according to the needs of the vintage and the individual terroir. The outcome is whites of fine intensity and great purity, and reds with elegant fruit freshness and subtle mineral persistence.
 
Since we began working with Jean-Pierre, we are delighted to witness greater critical acclaim from multiple leading critics. This causes us problems in terms of meeting demand, but it is much-deserved recognition for a domaine that has quietly gone about crafting wines of increasing precision and incredible terroir expression, all of which led Jasper Morris to write of the 2021s last year: “his range of white wines was just about the finest I tasted through the autumn months!”
 
Jean-Pierre Latour describes 2022 as a “beautiful vintage for both reds and whites” and one which is notable for the precision and energy that the wines show. The reds have a structure due to the concentration typical of the vintage, but also capture the pure fresh fruit character that is equally present. The whites have a pristine quality that has become a hallmark of Jean-Pierre’s wines in the years we have known him and he describes the 2022s as “rayonnant” – radiant. On the day I tasted with him, the aromatics were tighter than Jean-Pierre had observed them to be two to three weeks previously, and in terms of the biodynamic calendar, it was a root day! The fruit and energy on the palate were, however, more than evident, they were remarkable. For Jean-Pierre, they reminded him of the 2014s in that they were like a “photo” of each terroir. This is most definitely another scintillating set of wines from Domaine Latour-Giraud and they remain compelling value with prices remaining the same as last year. It is no surprise to see that they are more avidly followed today than ever before.

Please see below for my notes on the 2022s from last month's visit.

Domaine Latour-Giraud, Volnay 1^er Cru, Clos des Chenes 2022
£420 per 6 bottles in bond
After the 2021 vintage was sold as village Volnay, the 2022 Clos des Chenes is back and showing all the class of this revered Premier Cru site. The nose shows pure fruit concentration and clarity. The bright, fresh red fruit shimmers. Subtle creamy notes add a further dimension and complexity. On the palate this vibrant fresh fruit carries through and is possessed of a tremendous mineral drive. Jean-Pierre describes energy as a mark of the vintage and it shows here with a thrilling white stone mineral length. Drink 2025-2040. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Bourgogne Chardonnay 2022
£150 per 6 bottles in bond
Closed on the nose but clean, pure and healthy. The palate shows an explosive yellow grapefruit vibrancy and good precision and focus. Clean, fresh and with a gentle pithy grip to the finish. Drink 2024-2028. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault, Les Narvaux 2022
£360 per 6 bottles in bond
Clean, pure, precise. On the nose there is a subtle hazelnut note with citrus fruit the dominant character on both nose and palate. Mouthwatering tension and energy. Remarkable drive. Really wonderful linear focus and persistence. Drink 2025-2032. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1^er Cru, Bouchères 2022
£420 per 6 bottles in bond
A barely perceptible bacon fat note of reductive winemaking makes way for a subtle hint of hazelnut and pristine fruit. On the palate, the wine opens and spreads across the palate beautifully while retaining its delicate, elegant profile. So good to see this wine back after its absence in the 2021 vintage. And what a return. Drink 2026-2034. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1^er Cru, Charmes 2022
£510 per 6 bottles in bond
While the nose here is currently closed and the palate also tight, the finish shows juicy citrus and stone fruit concentration with a textured mineral precision. There is wonderful core of pure, precise, fresh, healthy fruit here and a structure that will see this come through strongly. This Charmes is most certainly realising the quality and style that Jean-Pierre wants, showing a tighter, more focused and energised Charmes. Excellent and with a rosy future. Drink 2027-2037. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1^er Cru, Genevrières 2022
£540 per 6 bottles in bond
The Genevrières is currently one of the more expressive wines in the range on the day of tasting, with bacon fat notes evident immediately and scented lime aromatics too. The palate opens with an intense core of limey citrus fruit and a beautifully silky texture. This is mouthwatering and saline with a tremendous mineral cut and grip bringing incredible tension towards the finish. There is so much energy and complexity here as well as an exuberance that shows the radiant character of the vintage that Jean-Pierre described. Drink 2027-2037. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Puligny-Montrachet 1^er Cru, Champs Canet 2022
£540 per 6 bottles in bond
A lifted, scented note; a floral touch – white flower, acacia, honeysuckle. Pure, ripe fresh lemon too. The palate is silky and elegant with a pleasing citrus core and poised, refreshing acidity. There is a subtlety and silky flow through the palate, a real Puligny elegance, but then a tightening towards the end and a sense of tension, evident in a dry, stony length. This has such focused definition and pristine persistence. Drink 2027-2037. (ROM)
 
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1^er Cru, Genevrières, Cuvée des Pierre 2022
£630 per 6 bottles in bond
The nose here is currently more closed than the regular Genevrières, but you sense the deeply concentrated and complex core. On the palate, the concentration is yet more evident, such a powerful, tight core of citrus and mineral, subtly juicy and so long with a profound richness and an incredible tension and length. Drink 2027-2040. (ROM)