As Simon is explains, at Atlas we don’t like to commit to taking wines of numerous estates year in, year out. It doesn’t fit with our view of the wine world where good and indifferent vintages are pitched to clients regardless of quality or suitability. Of course, there a number of exceptions, but we always look to balanced and not overloaded. One of those exceptions is Bekkers in the McLaren Vale.
From the very first time I tasted their impressive wines I was stunned and there has been no weakening of this impression in subsequent vintages of their headlining Syrah. We offer the 2014 Syrah at £320 per 6 bottle case in bond. Once, more this is an Atlas exclusivity.
Why? Well, frankly it is a more sophisticated style than many – the purity of the fruit is exceptional and there is a sense of detail and clarity that I find lacking in so many examples of Australian Syrah/ Shiraz. This is a seriously clued up producer. As James Halliday, regarded as a leading authority on Australian wine, puts it; ‘This brings together two high-performance, highly experienced and highly credentialed business and life partners. Husband Toby Bekkers graduated with an honours degree in applied science in agriculture from the University of Adelaide, and over the ensuing years has had broad-ranging responsibilities as general manager of Paxton Wines in McLaren Vale, and as a leading exponent of organic and biodynamic viticulture. Wife Emmanuelle was born in Bandol in the south of France, and gained two university degrees, in biochemistry and oenology, before working for the Hardy’s in the south of France, which led her to Australia and a wide-ranging career, including Chalk Hill.’
The critical acclaim for Bekkers just keeps ticking along. Recently Sarah Ahmed wrote a piece in Decanter magazine on a ‘Style shift in Australian reds’ (July 2016) in which she comments that ‘There will always be a place for big, burly Barossa Shiraz and high-octane McLaren Vale Grenache…..But following a visit Down Under, it’s clear that restraint, tension and balance are the new buzzwords in these warm-climate regions.’ This rather aptly sums up the attributes of Bekkers, who produce impeccable McLaren Vale Shiraz and Grenache as well as a blend of the two. Unsurprisingly, Toby Bekkers is cited in the article and he talks of the challenge of reducing density and improving a wine’s fragrance and spice. Due to this additional refinement and added complexity, Bekkers Syrah scores highly and not just with me, but with a growing number of critics who are gradually getting the chance to taste these hugely impressive wines.
The 2014 vintage was an interesting one in the McLaren Vale; a heat spike that rapidly escalated ripening was eased by cooler, late season conditions that allowed for a more even maturity. For me, the 2014 ranks as one of the finest vintages yet for Bekkers and I’ll be fascinated to see how this evolves in bottle, provided I have the requisite patience. Certainly the harmony on show bodes well for future evolution as the suggested drink dates below reveal. This is another knock-out vintage.
2014 McLaren Vale Syrah, Bekkers
£320 per 6 bottle case in bond
95+ points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown (The Wine Advocate)
Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2014 Mclaren Vale Syrah gives a profoundly scented nose of plum preserves, blueberry tart and blackberry preserves over notes of Indian spices, beef drippings, menthol, licorice and cloves. Full-bodied and packed with taut, muscular fruit, it gives layers of spicy, perfumed blue and black fruit flavors supported by grainy tannins and finishing with a satisfying savory character. Drink to 2030.
96 points, James Halliday (Australian Wine Companion)
Dense, deep crimson-purple; grace with power, varietal expression at once fine yet intense. The balance and mouthfeel are exceptional, and it will cruise serenely through decades to come. To 2039.