2020 Forstberg, Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder
Weingut Dautel
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond
2020 Schupen, Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder
Weingut Dautel
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond
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The outstanding single vineyard Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) of Weingut Dautel have become firm favourites of many Atlas clients since we discovered them in March 2020. In that first tasting in 2020, the wines that caught our eye were the two Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs, namely Forstberg and Schupen. Grosses Gewächs is a German term which can loosely be interpreted as the equivalent of the French ‘Grand Cru’, in that it relates to the highest classification of individual vineyards within the German system.
The Dautel estate lies 20 kilometres north of Stuttgart and encompasses around 20 hectares of vineyards. While the majority is devoted to Riesling, 18% is dedicated to Spätburgunder. Ernst Dautel had been a co-founder of the local cooperative, where he worked until completing his wine studies in 1985. Recognising the potential quality inherent in his own vineyards, Ernst left the cooperative to solely focus on making wines at the Dautel estate under his own label. His son Christian grew up working alongside his father but opted to gain experience by working at wineries across the globe, including a year assisting Dominique Lafon at Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault. He returned home with a broader base of understanding and oversaw his first vintage at Weingut Dautel in 2010, becoming head winemaker in 2013. Christian focuses on allowing the wines to finely express the nuances of his various vineyard sites. He therefore uses very little new oak and eschews the use of barriques in favour of larger 300 litre hogsheads as well as much larger oak barrels. The estate’s vines are planted at high densities, in order to create competition for the vines and limit yield – production of Forstberg GG is approximately 250 cases of 6 bottles, and Schupen GG is even lower, at around 220.
The 2020 growing season was warm and dry, though September was cooler and with a small amount of beneficial rain. This generally meant that young vines suffered more than old vines, which was not a problem for these two wines, for which many of the vines are over 50 years old. Overall it was cooler than 2018 and did not have the heat spikes of 2019. In short, 2020 has yielded wines of poise and harmony, blessed with coolly ripe fruit and vibrant freshness.
A fabulous duo of Pinot Noir. These continue to represent astonishing value for what are essentially Grand Cru wines and I would encourage you to buy these gems that show a heightened sense of vineyard differentiation in this vintage.
2020 Forstberg, Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder
Weingut Dautel
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond
The nose opens slowly, but when it does it displays a broad swathe of dark berry fruit – healthy, ripe and pure. The palate opens with the same concentration of ripe dark fruit – raspberry, black cherry, loganberry – together with a touch of spice. There is an easy fluidity across the mid-palate and then an appealing tension towards the end with a subtle stony minerality and a lingering juicy fruit quality, finishing with a clay soil derived richness and power at the very end. Tasting this bottle over three days illustrated the beautiful fruit purity and concentration, a wine that shows a mineral dimension but is carried by a deep dark fruit and a mouthwatering freshness. Drink 2024-2030. (ROM)
2020 Schupen, Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder
Weingut Dautel
£185 per 6 bottle case in bond
The nose immediately shows a stony mineral quality. Intensely mineral when compared to the fruit-led style of the Forstberg. Pure fruit beneath and then a palate that shows a surprising opulence of fruit, broad and mouthfilling. The finish here is notably mineral, showing a controlled power and persistence. Long and gum-tingling. The limestone aspect returns at the end giving a sense of energy and a promise of age-worthiness. Over three days of tasting, the Schupen became more expressive and with greater fruit power and breadth on the mid-palate. The finish remained characterised by powerful limestone minerality but with incredible pure fruit at the end. Drink 2025-2032. (ROM)