Four new releases, including two new Champagnes from De Sousa
'Simply outstanding'
NV Mycorhize, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Extra Brut, De Sousa - £295 per 6 bottle case in bond
NV Blanc de Noirs, Grand Cru, Brut Nature, De Sousa (LIMITED EDITION) - £240 per 6 bottle case in bond
2013 Cuvée des Caudalies, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut, De Sousa - £725 per 6 bottle case in bond
2013 Cuvée des Caudalies, Le Mesnil, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut, De Sousa - £725 per 6 bottle case in bond
If my discussions with clients are anything to go by, this offer would rank as one of the most eagerly awaited in our calendar. The Champagnes of De Sousa are avidly followed by our clients with several cuvées claiming something of a cult following, including the Mycorhize offered here.
I am also pleased to introduce two new wines and one new vintage of a familiar favourite, all of which we tasted on our visit to De Sousa last December. Production of these three additions is limited, so don’t delay if you are interested – the previous vintage Champagne offer from De Sousa sold out in a matter of hours, and while we take our full allocation, there is seldom enough to satisfy demand. These are simply outstanding Champagnes.
About De Sousa
The De Sousa family (of Portuguese descent) have been in Avize in the heart of the Côte des Blancs for three generations. The house of De Sousa & Fils was founded in 1986 by the late Erick De Sousa and his wife Michelle, and today, it is run by their three children, Charlotte, Julie and Valentin. Their vineyards extend over 14 hectares (with 10 hectares owned by the family and 4 hectares en fermage) across 13 villages and are divided into 93 plots. Many of Champagne’s most famous terroir feature in their holdings, including vineyards in the villages of Ambonnay and Aÿ for Pinot Noir, and the villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil sur Oger and Oger for Chardonnay.
The vast majority of their vines are low yielding, given they were planted more than 50 years ago, and they have cultivated their vineyards organically since 1989 though only sought certification in 2010. In 1999, De Sousa converted to biodynamic viticulture which, if anything, has lowered yields even further. You quickly get the impression that everything at De Sousa is about quality over quantity. Four hectares of vineyard now see no mechanisation and are ploughed by horse, meaning there is less soil compaction, helping to maintain microbial diversity which the De Sousas see as key in vines establishing deep roots where they can tap into trace minerals. The family are always intent on raising the quality bar. Central to their philosophy is a respect for nature and operating as naturally as possible. They are convinced that this delivers finer results and, based on the evidence of the quality in the bottle, who are we to argue? The quality at this estate continues to impress us greatly.
Many of these new wines and new releases haven’t yet been reviewed, so please see my comments on the composition of each Champagne and my tasting notes below. And if you are someone who needs to hear third party endorsements, William Kelley commented with regard to an earlier release, that De Sousa was ‘a producer that deserves to be much better known among Anglophone wine lovers.’ Champagne critic, Peter Liem once commented that ‘it’s no accident that De Sousa is found in many of France’s best restaurants’, which just so happens to be where I first encountered them over 10 years ago.
About the 2013 vintage
And finally, a brief word on the 2013 vintage. It wasn’t the simplest of vintages, as the summer was comparatively cool by modern standards, which delayed harvest and resulted in wines with a more classical structure than we may encounter in a warmer year. September was bright and sunny and brought about admirable ripeness in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. As the wines from this vintage have come onto the market, and subsequently tasted, it has become apparent that these conditions have created a truly great set of Champagnes that reveal great balance, with Chardonnay most likely the strongest performer, but Pinot Noir not far behind.
NV Mycorhize, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru,
Extra Brut, De Sousa
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
100% Chardonnay, Grand Cru, old vines, base wines aged in oak, based on 2018 vintage. 20% drawn from a solera.
Mycorhize always offers fine complexity – with notes of freshly-baked patisserie on the nose, as well as hints of white flowers and vanilla pod. It is the sense of luxuriance that this Champagne conveys that really impresses, with a beautifully cushioned mousse and a softly-layered fruit of juicy orchard fruits, both pear and apple. Wonderfully harmonious and exuding considerable finesse, there is a gently smoky, chalky mineral nuance that emerges to the finish, which is laced with a distinct tangy, almost citrus fruit. Persistent and pure, this Champagne is gaining in complexity as the solera continues to age. Stunning. (SL) Drink 2024-2034
NV Blanc de Noirs, Grand Cru, Brut Nature,
De Sousa (LIMITED EDITION)
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
100% Pinot Noir, Grand Cru fruit from Ambonnay, based on 2018 vintage. Base wine aged in oak for 10 months, then aged for 42 months on lees in bottle. Disgorged in March 2023. Just 830 cases produced.
This new cuvée showcases the Ambonnay terroir in some style. Beautifully pure with hints of red plum, mint, lees and a chalky quality expressed on both nose and palate. It is just so well-expressed, with an overriding sense of harmony. A subtle roundness from the use of oak on the base wine lends to the completeness of this outstanding NV cuvée. Expressive, intense, elegant with enticing red fruit hints and a deceptively long finish. A very welcome addition indeed. (SL) Drink 2024-2029
2013 Cuvée des Caudalies, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs,
Extra Brut, De Sousa
£725 per 6 bottle case in bond
100% Chardonnay, Grand Cru blend from Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil, old vines of more than 50 years age, base wine aged in oak. 4g/l dosage
The first of two 2013 vintage Blanc de Blancs. The aromas capture notes of patisserie, and juicy ripe fruit with notes of smoke and mineral. The candied citrus fruit notes on the palate, touches of chamomile and creamy vanilla add plenty of complexity to a palate that picks up just a hint of exotic fruit that renders it utterly compelling. Baked pineapple registered in my tasting note. This is such a juicy, mouth-filling, intense Blanc de Blancs with a moreish quality that it is likely to appeal in its youth. A beautiful Champagne with plenty of character and persistence. (SL) Drink 2024-2030
2013 Cuvée des Caudalies, Le Mesnil, Grand Cru,
Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut, De Sousa
£725 per 6 bottle case in bond
100% Chardonnay, Grand Cru specifically from Le Mesnil, old vines, base wine aged in oak, 4g/l dosage.
The De Sousas opted to showcase the fruit from a parcel in Le Mesnil separately, and what a great choice that was. Revealing a more tensile structure than the 2013 Caudalies, this cuvee took a little time to open out in the glass. The aromas are more smoky, chalky mineral yet there is a juicy, almost citrussy fruit behind. The tangy persistence of this cuvée is captivating – it has a tautness and energy that suggests this more linear style will benefit from a little patience in bottle. With air, notes of creamy vanilla and freshly baked bread emerged, but it continues to reveal terrific delineation and clarity. This is without doubt a stunning Champagne. A gem. (SL) Drink 2026 -2033+
So, there you go, four outstanding Champagnes from De Sousa. Please let us know of your interest.