Simon has been monitoring releases of 2008 vintage Champagne closely as this slightly unheralded vintage has much to offer, as evidenced by the 2008 Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, ‘Terre de Vertus’.
Simply put, a warm spring and summer with a notably cool August delivered fruit in very fine condition in the 2008 vintage. There were no climatic excesses in 2008, and the end result has the potential to provide scintillating acidity allied to power and weight – a special combination indeed. Simon uses the word ‘potential’ advisedly as Champagne is a vast and diverse region where generalisations can hold little validity. One domaine that has harnessed the best the vintage had to offer is that of Pierre and Sophie Larmandier of Larmandier-Bernier and we offer the 2008 Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, ‘Terre de Vertus’ at £185 per 6 bottle case in bond.
Larmandier-Bernier may not be a name widely known, although the domaine enjoys a considerable following. It is no newcomer; indeed, the Larmandier family was one of a very small group of growers who recognised the character of single terroirs and of old vines when the tendency in the region led towards replanting for greater productivity. Furthermore, they were one of earliest to embrace biodynamic viticulture. The Larmandiers have never lacked conviction in their own beliefs and have happily followed their own path.
Wine critic Antonio Galloni commented: “The Larmandier-Bernier Champagnes are some of the purest and most utterly engaging wines being made in the region today. I can’t recommend them highly enough.” Antonio Galloni, December 2008.
The Terre de Vertus is a Blanc de Blancs, so therefore solely made from Chardonnay – and from Premier Cru classified vineyards at that. This is a zero dosage style which means the dryness of the wine has not been adjusted prior to bottling. Pierre Larmandier feels that the two particular sites – Les Barillers and Les Faucherets (planted in 1982 and 1962 respectively) – achieve such a ripeness and depth to the fruit that dosage is not necessary. This is not uncommon amongst their range nor that of grower Champagnes; if the quality of the fruit is high and sufficient ripeness in evidence, it is not necessary to adjust the dryness of a wine out of sheer habit.
This Blanc de Blancs shows the merits of the 2008 vintage; pure and linear in style and yet with a fine intensity to the fruit. It is worth stressing that there is some notable power to the best of these 2008s, as we find here. I have always found superb complexity in the Larmandier wines - the 2008 Terre de Vertus is no exception with its combination of its mineral, chalky nuances, its gentle nutty, toastiness (from élèvage in small barrels and foudres) and its mouth-watering, ripe fruit. This Blanc de Blancs confidently illustrates the skill of this five-star grower.
2008 Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru, ‘Terre de Vertus’, Larmandier-Bernier
£185 per 6 bottle case under bond
95/100 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinousmedia.com
The 2008 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus is drop-dead gorgeous. A wine of intense minerality and pure cut, the Terre de Vertus dazzles from start to finish. Grapefruit, mint, wild flowers and anise jump out in a wine that is totally alive and constantly changing in the glass. Hints of almonds, hazelnuts and dried flowers all add complexity to the finish. The Terre de Vertus emerges from Les Barillers and Les Faucherets, and was bottled with no dosage. This bottle was disgorged on June 2012. Drink now till 2020.
This vintage will benefit from a couple of years in bottle and will drink through to just beyond 2020. It will be available for delivery in early October.