One of the great things about working in wine is the joy of opening a vintage Champagne on a Monday to assess and write it up before offering.Simon's offer on the 2008 Pol Roger Brut, below.
Earlier this morning we tasted the 2008 vintage of Pol Roger Brut, a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, drawn from Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards across the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs respectively. The wine is aged in Pol’s cellars for eight years before disgorgement.
Frankly, this is a sure fire sign that after a couple of good – not exceptional – vintages, Pol Roger is back on form. I cannot recall enjoying the straight Vintage this much this since tasting the 2002. Interestingly, Pol Roger highlights the fact that the 2008 is ‘more refined than the 2002 (and a different style) was at this stage of its development.’ This is a powerful statement given the status of the exceptional 2002 vintage, but I certainly agree.
2008 is looking like being a very impressive vintage with considerable staying power. After a variable, relatively cool summer, mid to late August conditions improved considerably and harvest commenced on the 15th September in fine conditions. The fruit was very healthy with a fine balance between sugar and acidity. This shows in the resultant styles as there is a terrific vein of acidity and a sense of energy about the best of 2008.
I think the 2008 vintage (which is just starting to be released now) shows great potential across various growers and higher profile houses – you are likely to see some interesting offers of this vintage across 2017. Please see my note below.
2008 Pol Roger Brut
£270 per 6 bottle case in bond
The aromatics here reveal a fine sense of purity; with enticing notes of freshly baked bread and patisserie. There are hints of red fruit as well as orchard fruit here, perhaps baked apple and a hint of spice, all presented with great clarity. While showing great density and yet lightness of touch, what impresses most on the palate is the racy, almost bracing acidity that underscores this vintage – it lends more verve and persistence than was present in either the 2006 or the 2004. The purity of fruit impresses greatly; it almost seems as if the dosage has been lowered and it allows more chalky, mineral nuances to come to the fore. This looks set to age well with suggested drink dates of 2018 to 2035. (SL).
It is great to see such a strong performance from one of our preferred houses. Please let us know of your interest.
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