When a Burgundian estate is on the rise, one starts to hear the name in all the right contexts. There is a buzz among those who have a chance to taste at the estate; when back vintages become available, they rapidly disappear. Christophe Perrot-Minot’s star has been on the rise since his excellent 2008s but the last two years have seen enthusiasm built to a crescendo. This enthusiasm is justified and those who have had the chance to taste with Christophe will have observed the clear progression and will appreciate that this is among the most exciting addresses in the Côte d’Or right now.
What is most striking when tasting at Perrot-Minot is the overriding quality of the wines up and down the scale, from the villages Morey-Saint-Denis to the stunning Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru La Richemonne to the sublime Clos de Bèze. Taking the Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe d’Orveaux as a case in point, Christophe divides his holding; the fruit from the best-situated old vines is retained in the Cuvée Ultra and the fruit from the rest of this Premier Cru vineyard heads into the straight Chambolle-Musigny villages. In 2015 this declassification is even more extreme and the Ultra cuvées are even more Ultra.
Production is small and several wines are produced in quantities of less than 50 cases. Old vines are the norm; every wine – with the exception of the Morey-Saint-Denis, Rue de Vergy and the Gevrey-Chambertin – is produced from vines of at least 45 years of age. For the wines given the moniker ‘Cuvée Ultra,’ the vines are 70 to 110 years old. Christophe has a clear philosophy as to what he wants to achieve and follows it to the letter, although he maintains the skill of winemaker is the ability to adapt. The winemaking here is sensitive, highlighting both purity of fruit and the natural expression of the terroir. These are silky, fine-tuned wines; there is a precision here as well as a density, yet never do the wines seem cumbersome or aggressive – elegance comes first.
We were delighted to receive our first direct allocation from Perrot-Minot last year, especially as Christophe made some of the outstanding wines. The 2015s represent another great success and the two vintages will make for a wonderful comparison down the years. The 2015s have a touch more grip and density than the flowing 2014s. They find a perfect balance between the considerable qualities of this special vintage, being at once pure, rich and sweet fruited, structured and vividly fresh. Among many wonderful visits, our tasting with Christophe stood out.
Perrot-Minot, Morey-Saint-Denis La Rue de Vergy 2015
En la Rue de Vergy is a single vineyard that lies just above the famous Grand Cru of Clos de Tart, to the south of the commune of Morey-Saint-Denis. A portion of this wine is aged in new French oak barrels, which lend structural support and allow the natural tannins to mesh with the wine without dominating. This, allied to rigorous sorting of the crop to ensure only the best grapes contribute to the final wine, results in a Morey-Saint-Denis that punches well above its weight. The 2015 has beautifully pure fruit and an easy concentration. Very much Morey-Saint-Denis in style with a touch of earth and spice framing the dark fruit with red highlights. This is effortless and utterly delicious. Drink 2017 to 2022
Domaine Perrot-Minot, Gevrey-Chambertin 2015
The domaine’s 1.50 hectares of Gevrey-Chambertin are located across the road from Grand Cru Mazoyères-Chambertin, all within a specific vineyard named ‘Les Seuvrées’. The 2015 is full of fresh and pretty red fruit with just a hint of spice and a pleasing umami character. Crisp, bright and vibrant. A beautiful village wine and, while this will age gracefully, it will drink well from release. Drink 2017-2023
Perrot-Minot, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes 2015*
The Vieilles Vignes is one of two AOC Vosne-Romanée wines from Christophe Perrot-Minot. The fruit for this wine is taken from two separate parcels of vines (Aux Ormes and Les Chalandins). Both are towards the bottom of the vineyard slope, which gives a lighter, more accessible style of wine compared to Les Champs Perdrix. From just 0.45 hectare of vines, this typifies Christophe’s attention to detail and his approach to small production and vineyard selection. The 2015 is a pristine example of Vosne-Romanée with silky, rich purple fruit highlighted by nuances of red berries. Both decadent and delicate. Like the Gevrey this will be accessible and delicious early on but will age with grace. Drink 2017- 2023
Perrot-Minot, Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes 2015*
Les Champs Perdrix is located just above the Grand Cru of La Romanée. It has a fine perfume alongside the lush feel on the palate. When compared to Christophe Perrot Minot’s other villages Vosne-Romanée, it has additional concentration of flavour and structure to ensure longevity. Christophe makes just 95 cases of this wine from a small area of 0.35 hectare. The 2015 is built in a super elegant style with great definition and texture. The svelte tannins frame the rich – yet beautifully fresh – fruit and the acidity is perfectly judged to lengthen the flavour and heighten the delicacy and nuance of this wonderfully pretty Vosne. Drink 2019-2026
Domaine Perrot-Minot, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte Vieilles Vignes 2015
La Riotte is a small vineyard just below the village of Morey-Saint-Denis itself. Displaying the spice and compact palate of good Morey-Saint-Denis, the 2015 also has distinguishing hints smoke and blackberry. It is soft and silky in nature, with a roundness to the palate. The emphasis is on clarity more so than power, with a notable restraint. This speaks clearly of the elegance that can be achieved in La Riotte. Drink 2020-2027
Perrot-Minot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes Vieilles Vignes 2015*
Along with Les Amoureuses, Les Charmes (which lies just to the north) is one of the two most championed Premier Crus of Chambolle-Musigny. Both Crus tend to give ripe, full-bodied wines from their well-sited, warm vineyard areas. Christophe vinifies his wine from a small parcel in the middle of the vineyard Les Charmes, making under 100 cases in total. The 2015 is elegant and composed with lovely aromatic complexity and a substantial but svelte foundation of tannin. This is a deep Charmes which, while engaging and delicious, has plenty of complexity and the substance to reward considerable ageing. An elegant powerhouse. Drink 2020 -2028
Perrot-Minot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts Vieilles Vignes 2015*
Premier Cru Les Beaux Monts lies right at the top of the Vosne-Romanée commune overlooking the vineyard of Aux Brulées and Grand Cru Echézeaux. Under 100 cases are made from this small parcel of vines. The 2015 is a classic Beaux Monts with beautiful, rich dark fruit and a hint of decadence tempered by plenty of stony mineral character. The 2015 will age gracefully but this promises to be remarkably delicious when young with tremendous fruit sweetness and concentration buffered by savoury and stony characteristics. This Beaux Monts has plenty of freshness to lengthen and elevate its beauty. Drink 2019 to 2029.
Perrot-Minot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau 'Cuvée Ultra' Vieilles Vignes 2015*
La Combe d’Orveau is a fascinating Chambolle-Musigny vineyard that in reality encompasses Villages, Premier Cru and Grand Cru quality. It is therefore surprising to note how small it is in size with only 2.38 hectares, which sit on the border with Vosne-Romanée. The Combe D’Orveau 2015 draws a clear line to Musigny with soaring aromatics and stunning fruit sweetness. There is a richness at the fore but the underlying freshness carries the palate. This is a remarkably complete 1er Cru with layers of complexity and huge depth and length all expressed harmoniously and precisely. This is truly wonderful. Drink 2021 to 2031
Perrot-Minot, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru La Richemone 'Cuvée Ultra' Vieilles Vignes 2015*
The Richemone vineyard lies very close to border with Vosne-Romanée, and was planted over 110 years ago, meaning that these are some of the oldest vines in Burgundy. The resultant wines (on account of low yields) therefore tend to be incredibly concentrated and powerful in style. This 2015 is gloriously complex with dark fruits, black pepper, spice and just a hint of smokiness. This rich complexity is restrained by a natural lively freshness which invigorates the finish. This is staggeringly impressive and will generously reward ageing. 2021 to 2033
Domaine Perrot-Minot, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015*
Along with Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the Grand Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin. With approximately 12 hectares (plus a further 18.50 hectares that can be bottled under the name Mazoyères-Chambertin), the myriad soil types and aspects make generalisations difficult, and so the styles of individual producers are more important here. Christophe Perrot-Minot has approximately one hectare in size from which he makes approximately 300 cases. This 2015 has plenty of rich, spicy, ripe fruit character and complexity yet remains composed and restrained with a lot of finesse. This is a flowing, elegant style which has plenty of depth and substance but wears it lightly. Seamless and beautifully harmonious. Drink 2021-2033
Perrot-Minot, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015*
Chapelle-Chambertin lies immediately below Chambertin-Clos de Bèze on slightly thinner soils, and as a result it usually appears a touch lighter in body than its neighbour. The 2015 offers up lush fruit but does not lose its shape or composure. The ripeness adds an extra dimension in terms of complexity and nuance. The overall impression is of an elegant and restrained with a touch more generosity than is typical for Chapelle-Chambertin. Christophe notes that in Chapelle-Chambertin one needs to harvest late to capture everything that the vineyard had to offer, as wines from this vineyard can otherwise be a little austere. The benefits of that approach are obvious in this pretty yet serious example, which harnesses a little extra richness without overshadowing the mineral profile of the vineyard. This is beautifully judged. Drink 2020 to 2033.
Domaine Perrot-Minot, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015
Christophe Perrot-Minot bottles his Mazoyères-Chambertin separately from Charmes-Chambertin (rather than using the name of the latter on the label). It is a Grand Cru of approximately 18 hectares, which lie towards the south of the Gevrey-Chambertin commune. In 2015, Christophe has conjured a striking and very impressive Mazoyères with a core of mulberry fruit and nuances of earth, smoke and spice. This is deep and wide with a powerful structure and plenty of savoury character. Distinctively Mazoyères yet with the silkiness and refinement that are the hallmark of Christophe’s wines. Momentous. Drink 2023 to 2034.
Perrot-Minot, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015*
Christophe makes just over 150 cases of Clos de Bèze, from grapes that he purchases from another grower and there has been huge critical acclaim for this wine in recent years. The 2015 Bèze is incredibly concentrated and complex, with layers and layers of dark and red berry fruits. Despite the weight and structure this Bèze is astonishingly light on its feet with the aerian quality and soaring perfume of truly great Bèze. This is a majestic effort which will generously reward ageing. A stunning example of Bèze. Drink 2024 to 2036
Perrot-Minot, Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015*
The overall vineyard area of Chambertin Grand Cru is approximately 13 hectares, which lie between Latricières-Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. In style it is probably the most powerful of them all, although Christophe’s wine tends to have a particularly crystalline purity which can distract attention from the sheer strength of fruit underlying the palate. The first word than comes to mind when tasting the 2015 is ‘volume’. This is a rich and deep Chambertin with incredible length and complexity. Everything is turned up to the maximum yet this Chambertin 2015 is effortless and utterly seamless with delicacy and nuance. This is a masterful Chambertin which reflects the site but also the craft of this great winemaker. Outstanding. Drink 2024 to 2035.