Domaine Robert Sirugue
Based in Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Robert Sirugue is a family-run estate that, while small in size, makes wines that improve in stature every year (yet remain remarkably well-priced, we might add). All five Sirugue family members work in the cellar but it is Jean-Louis Sirugue’s son, Arnaud who has gradually been taking over the running of the 11 hectare vineyard, as well as vinification in the cellar. The grapes are harvested manually and sorted both in the vineyard and the cellar before a cool maceration takes place to extract the red fruit flavours, without resorting to extended pigeage (when the grape skins are pushed down into the vats repeatedly, to mix with the juice; an effective technique but one that can result in harsher tannins). Typically, the family age their wines for 18 months in wood, but the emphasis for their range is very much on the fruit, from the Bourgogne Pinot Noir right up to the Grand Cru Echézeaux.
Domaine Robert Sirugue, Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2014
This is a vibrant, fresh, red-berried Pinot Noir for drinking relatively early, which immediately demonstrates the exceptional value that this domaine can provide. No new oak is employed, which means that the primary, fresh nature of the fruit is retained. Following the gentle hints of strawberry and cranberry on the nose, and a touch of herb, the palate is well-rounded, with plenty of juicy fruit character and a fine finish. Drink 2016-2018
£120 per twelve bottles in bond
Domaine Robert Sirugue, Vosne-Romanée 2014
Aged partially in new oak, this is blended from the family’s 12 tiny plots of Vosne-Romanée, and perfectly shows quite how appealing Villages level wine can be from this area. Each parcel contributes its own distinct character – from the lighter, more fragrant to the riper, more opulent. The 2014 is slightly fuller than the 2013 but with the same cherry-red fruit character. A spicy, savoury note runs through the palate, with ripe, rounded tannins on the finish. This will show well early on its life and deliver a touch more complexity after three to four years in bottle. Drink 2017-2022
£145 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Robert Sirugue, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Les Petits Monts 2014
The Sirugue family own almost half of this 3.6 hectare Premier Cru vineyard and enjoy the benefits of this impressively situated site, which lies just above the famed Grand Crus of Richebourg and La Romanée-Conti. The soil is slightly poorer than the Grand Cru sites, but the wine shows all the fruit and floral fragrance of excellent Pinot Noir from this area. Half of the 2014 was aged in new oak and half was aged in barrels of more than a year old, giving complexity without overpowering the naturally showy character of the Premier Cru from here. Lifted aromas of spice and lavender mix with black cherry and a hint of cassis. The palate is full but poised, with supple tannins and a refreshing race that supports the palate without defining it. For drinking or cellaring over the mid-term. Drink 2018-2024
£230 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sirugue, Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru 2014*
We are delighted to receive a very small allocation of Domaine Sirugue’s Grand Cru of which only a couple of barrels are made each year. Les Grands Echézeaux lies sandwiched between the famous Grand Crus of Vosne-Romanée and Clos Vougeot. It is smaller than the similarly named Grand Cru Echézeaux, with under 10 hectares of vineyard but tends to deliver wines of consistently higher quality. The 2014 is dark and deep in colour with notes of mint and red fruits followed by a compact, tannic palate that will take time to mesh. There is an old vine sense of depth to the fruit on the palate, which reveals dusky dark fruit notes and hints of wood smoke. Patience required here for this Grand Cru to fully knit. Drink 2019-2027
£600 per six bottles in bond