You say Albillo, I say Albilla - the new vintage of Bodegas y Vinedos Ponce's exceptional white
You say Albillo, I say Albilla - the new vintage of Bodegas y Vinedos Ponce's exceptional white
His wines are among the best values in Spain, and not only that, they are also among the very best!. Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com, January 2025
2023 Albilla Selección, Ponce £255 per 6 bottle case in bond
The first vintage of Antonio Ponce’s Albilla Selección was a revelation – I had never tasted such a fine example from this lesser-known grape variety, but then should I be surprised when his reds, made principally from Bobal, receive the same accolade? Probably not.
By way of background, Bodegas y Vinedos Ponce is situated in Manchuela. In the eastern part of the provinces of Albacete and Cuenca, within Castile-La Mancha, due west of Valencia. Crucially, the region lies between the valleys of the rivers Jucar and Cabriel – it was originally part of the La Mancha DOP (Denominacion de Origen Protegida) but was awarded its own appellation in 2004.
Juan Antonio has high aspirations for this estate, which he founded in 2005, aged 23, but results to date confirm that what he has achieved thus far is nothing short of remarkable. His estate is farmed according to biodynamic principles, and the winemaking is really smart. Extraction on the reds is practiced with incredibly care, and use of oak is judicious. Given how highly I rate the reds, I was fascinated to see how the first vintage of the white Selección Albilla would show when I tasted for the first time last year. The 2022 was stunning, particularly for an inaugural release. The 2023, if anything, steps ahead of it, as you might very well expect for a follow up release.
Albilla or Albillo Real (in different regions there are slight changes in spelling) is an ancient grape variety, that previously enjoyed a good reputation in Spain. It is grown around Madrid and Castilla y Léon. Today, producers are looking to bring this variety back to prominence, on account of its qualities. Albilla is rich-textured with a smooth mouthfeel. The aromatics can express subtle floral notes, and the palate captures notes of peach, pear and zesty citrus. The best examples of this variety, and notably the two vintages from Ponce, capture a terrific mineral drive, finishing with an almost saline, mouthwatering character, which seems magnified in fruit from higher altitude vineyards. Some producers embrace a slight oxidative style, which adds depth and a touch of nuttiness. The variety certainly holds promise and shows it is capable of retaining good balancing acidity.
I think Ponce’s is the finest I have encountered – it is a blend of two vineyards, one based on a soil that is largely granitic, with a smaller proportion from a vineyard based on limestone and gravel. Juan Antonio uses large oak foudres and barrels to limit the oak impact on the wine. He doesn’t want to produce an overly reductive style, so he uses some new oak, where the pores are open to allow a little oxygen ingress. The wine is then aged on its lees for approaching a year. This means the style of the wine picks up on complexity, but without the varietal characteristics being overly dominated by the struck flint reductive characters. Ageing on lees, rather than stirring the lees, ensures the wine keeps a sense of tension and poise.
I sense that a couple of things may have been tweaked in the production – as Luis Gutiérrez comments below the oak is very well integrated, influencing flavour in a very subtle manner. As I said last vintage, for someone like me who is interested in the production decisions taken, particularly when I taste such an impressive wine, this looks like clever, clever winemaking. Antonio is clearly a producer who will continue refining process to elevate results where he can. Yield is down a touch in 2023, to just 4,200 bottles from 6,000 the year before. I am uncertain if that is down to the vintage or stricter selection as two tiers of Albilla are made. Certainly, I think the 2023 has a touch more concentration than the preceding year.
Before leaving you with Luis’ note below, I’ll share my thoughts. There is something almost Burgundian about this style, it is very refined. Perhaps that touch of waxy fruit, and the stone fruit of white peach and pear, signals a different variety, but I am commenting on the way the palate is presented and the structure. I really love that mineral backbone that this vintage exhibits. I left the sample bottle open for a day or so and it refused to fade, indicating that this should age well over the mid-term. If anything, the time open brought about more apricot and juicy peach notes. This is certainly a compelling and individual white and one to follow over the years.
2023 Albilla Selección, Ponce £255 per 6 bottle case in bond
95+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com The second vintage of the top-of-the-range white is the 2023 Selección Albilla, which showed less impact from the oak than the debut year, as this time the barrels were not new. The blend is slightly different in 2023, 60% Albilla from granite soils and 40% from limestone soils, but it's produced in a similar way: fermented in 600-liter barrels and 750- and 1,000-liter foudres, where the wine matured for 11 months. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.1 and 6.6 grams of acidity and comes through as fine, pure, crystalline and bone dry. The oak is much better integrated; there are some toasty notes in the background; and there are some faint flavors and a bit of tannin that will welcome some more time in the bottle. 4,200 bottles were produced when it was bottled in August 2024. Drink 2024-2034
'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard
'McHenry Hohnen is an absolute' star in Margaret River' AH: 2022 Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard The range of Chardonnays from 2022, in particular, is extraordinary.Angus Hughson, vinous.com McHenry Hohnen, Chardonnay, Hazel's Vineyard 2022£195 per 6 bottle case in bond
Having just tasted a range of McHenry-Hohnen Chardonnay here in the office this morning, I feel compelled to offer the outstanding 2022 Hazel’s Vineyard Chardonnay which stood out to us here for its incredible purity of fruit. There is a breadth and depth allied to a clarity and freshness. The wealth of yellow citrus fruit was glorious, offset by a subtle nutty note and a light oak touch. But it is the core of fruit that dominates and lingers long.
The Hohnen name is synonymous with quality and innovation in Australian and New Zealand wine. The Hohnen family were the owners of one of the early successes of Margaret River, Cape Mentelle, and it was David Hohnen who established Cloudy Bay, the estate that so significantly opened the wine world’s eyes to the quality that was possible in New Zealand. The McHenry family were vineyard owners who sold their fruit to Cape Mentelle in those early days but have expanded their holdings through canny purchases of excellent sites. As McHenry-Honen, they are now focused on site-specific wines and their range of single vineyard Chardonnay is scintillating.
As Angus Hughson writes: Today, founder Murray McHenry leads the team with assistance from Head Winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani, among a handful of other top wineries. Dalli Cani's focus on vineyard sustainability and biodynamics has helped him weave his magic to craft stylish, subtle and age-worthy wines. The range of Chardonnays from 2022, in particular, is extraordinary.
Hazel’s Vineyard is the most southerly of their vineyards with a north-facing aspect and with soils of an ironstone gravel over a clay base, such a soil structure providing good drainage and regulating water supply to the vines. As mentioned by Hughson above, viticulture is biodynamic and minimal intervention is key. This certainly translates to a purity that we witnessed ourselves in the glass today.
This is a magnificent expression of Margaret River Chardonnay and, at this price, represents incredible value for a wine of such outstanding quality. I urge you to take a case. I do not believe you will be disappointed.
My thoughts above. The notes of Angus Hughson and Erin Larkin below.
McHenry Hohnen, Chardonnay Hazel's Vineyard 2022£195 per 6 bottle case in bond96 points, Angus Hughson, vinous.com, May 2024The approachable yet finely tuned 2022 Chardonnay Hazel's Vineyard draws you in with highly complex yet understated aromas of citrus flowers and peach stone against a background of gently toasty oak. Crisp and vibrant, a strong core acidity drives searing focus and mineral intensity through to an extremely long finish. The 2022 is so young, with plenty to look forward to. Drink 2030-203893+ points, Erin Larkin, robertparker.com, July 2024The 2022 Hazel's Vineyard Chardonnay leads with creamy crushed and salted nuts, yellow peach and stewed apples. In the mouth, the wine is all about curry leaves and a hint of marzipan, candied almonds and pastry. There is also a hint of underripe pear. In some ways, it is archetypal Margaret River Chardonnay: powerful and yet tightly coiled, with firm acidity, populated by rich fruit and long. The acidity that sits on the back of the palate is fierce, and it serves to rip through the fruit and linger through the finish. I'd say that this wine will be better in a few years, which does make me sound like a broken record. But they really do blossom five years after harvest—so, circa 2027. For now, many will drink and love this, but it will be better! 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2025-2036Please let us know of your interest.Richardrichard.omahony@atlasfinewines.com
Looking for great, non-bank breaking white Burgundy? Look no further than this Chassagne
Looking for great, non-bank breaking white Burgundy?Look no further than this Chassagne Chassagne with great precision and persistence on the finish: elegance and class.Neal Martin, vinous.com 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey£390 per 6 bottle case in bond
Here is the short version… Finding value in white Burgundy is challenging, particularly 1er Cru, as prices escalate quite quickly.This wine has become a mainstay for us in recent years being a Premier Cru Chassagne-Montrachet at sub £400 per case.And while I am not keen on ‘best ever’ monikers, this is certainly the finest vintage of this wine I have yet tasted.The 2022 is stunning, with a classical sense of firmness in evidence that used to be typical of Chassagne.In short, at this price point, Virondot 2022 from Marc Morey is a great buy – it is utterly delicious.
Here is the longer version…
Domaine Marc Morey manage 8.5 hectares of vineyard including a tiny parcel of Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. However, the mainstays of their range are a bevy of well-situated Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, including Les Caillerets, Les Chenevottes, Les Morgeots and of course, En Virondot.En Virondot is an interesting vineyard, which lies close to Les Caillerets to the south-west of the village. It is a separate ‘island’, not adjoining any other Premier Cru. The vines are 30 years old and lie at an altitude a little more elevated than all other Chassagne vineyards. The name ‘Virondot’ indicates that the vines on this site were originally planted in curved rows – in old French, ‘un virandiot’.I have always said that this wine seems to show well at an early stage, certainly in vintages like 2019, in contrast to the comments of some critics. I think that is still the case as the fruit fans out on both nose and palate with time in the glass. That said, the 2022 doesn’t show in such a bold manner, in fact the impression is much more classical, which is at odds with the hot vintage conditions. Those that love Chassagne-Montrachet for that firm mineral backbone should take note as this wine will satisfy that itch in a way that many recent vintage white Burgundy, made in a looser knit style, fail to do.This vintage shows a terrific lime marmalade character, orange zest to the finish, very fine tuned and detailed. A complex stony quality infuses the acidity that adds definition to the rich fruit. As always, there are hints of yellow plum to the finish, yet these are held in check by such a mouthwatering minerally acidity. This is at once inviting yet suggests it has more to give – one of those wines where you find it hard to resist, though you know it could be fascinating with age. Once more, a great glass of Chassagne with refinement and power. If you wish to drink this, early make sure you decant, and place back in the fridge for an hour before serving – you will be in for a treat. And if you have more patience, this is a sure bet for five to seven years cellarage.Please see below for Neal Martin’s note, complete with one of his higher scores for this wine.2022 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Virondot, Domaine Marc Morey et Fils£390 per 6 bottle case in bond93-95 points, Neal Martin, vinous.comThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Virondot 1er Cru is habitually one of the Domaine's strongest cards, though this year, it is challenged by the brilliant Caillerets. Still, you cannot deny the nose has excellent mineralité and complexity, with touches of chai and chamomile complementing the yellow fruit. The palate is very well-balanced, with great power and precision. Wonderful acidity is interwoven into this Chassagne with great precision and persistence on the finish: elegance and class. Drink 2025-2045.Please let us know of your interest.Simonsimon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com
Top tips and conclusions from the Atlas Big Barolo Bash
After our Big Barolo Bash held at Salisbury House, EC2M, on Wednesday 4th December 2024, I thought I would share a few thoughts as it is not often that you get the chance to compare 42 different Barolo spanning vintage 2011 to 2019.The wines shown were grouped by vintage rather than by grower. The aim was to encourage an understanding of vintage characteristics. We also felt this would spare clients the significant challenge of moving from a softer, lighter vintage to a richer, more tannic one and then back again in a repeated cycle through all producers. Deciding on a tasting order is never easy, even more so with a variety like Nebbiolo, known for its bright acidity and structural tannins. Our buyer, Seb Agnello, manned the 2018 and 2019 table. These two vintages show distinctly different styles. 2018 was a more mixed vintage, still with some notable successes. It is a lighter expression of the Nebbiolo variety, but by no means a poor vintage. It has always been our view that it was a misunderstood vintage; wines from this year have shown appreciably better after a little time in bottle, having been difficult to read when very young. From the wines shown, the Barolo Prapo from Ettore Germano impressed clients with its cherry red fruit – for a Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba, a commune known for richness and power, this is an incredibly pretty example, vintage in, vintage out. Chiara Boschis’ blended Barolo, Via Nuova, drawn from various crus from the across the region, received plenty of praise from clients, too. Perhaps the wine that impressed most from this selection was Vietti’s Cerequio 2018, which showed blue fruit touches, a fine freshness and those slightly rounder tannins that are common to La Morra. The 2019s were a last-minute addition and were the two single vineyard wines of Andrea Bosco which offered an opportunity to compare a Barolo from the lighter soils of Verduno with a richer wine from La Morra; respectively, the wonderfully refined Agostino Bosco, Barolo, Neirane and the darker, brooding Agostino Bosco, Barolo, La Serra. Clients seemed interested in how these two most recent vintages would shape up in time. While the 2019s are the product of hot year, these showed how that vintage manages to show a certain classicism. They will warrant 8 to 10 years in bottle before showing in their prime. In contrast, the 2018s, with their lighter accent, are already starting to show well, even if some of the leading examples will still demand 4- or 5-years patience before really starting to sing. The 2017 table was, for me personally, one of the most fascinating. Not only were some of the region’s most notable growers featured in this line up, but it showcased a vintage that I fear has been a little overlooked. 2017 was a hot and dry vintage and in an earlier era I don’t believe the wines would have come through as well as they have. Growers have had to adapt to modern day conditions in Barolo; whatever way you cut it, this is down to climate change. As I remarked to various clients, in the 1990s there were perhaps three notable vintages which delivered ripe fruit and fine structure, other vintages in which many growers lost precision and freshness in their wines but a greater number of years in which it proved tough to ripen Nebbiolo fully. Leaf-plucking became routine to expose the fruit to the sun and allow aeration. Rolling the clock forward, between 2010 and 2020 we have not had a bad vintage. There have been challenging conditions, but we have had four great vintages - 2010, 2013, 2016 and 2019. Then there have been some more mixed years, but ones in which good growers have nevertheless excelled. Today it is more about providing some protection to the fruit, as opposed to exposing it. This is quite an incredible switch around to have occurred in just 20 years. Growers have needed to learn fast – to learn how to prepare their vineyards for the modern-day challenges of heat and drought, when not so very long ago, the challenge was inclement weather. 2017 is a successful hot vintage, particularly given there were four months in the growing season without any rain. The cooler weather at harvest really assisted in providing freshness to the aromatics and brightness to the fruit; this was notably evident in the selection of 2017s at the tasting. The two wines from Brovia were just beautiful; both the Brea ‘Vigna Ca Mia’ and the Villero were way ahead of the quality that a reading of the vintage reports might suggest possible. Instead we found pure fruit, refined tannins, glossy textures and a complex amalgam of fruit nuances and tertiary notes. Equally compelling were the duo from Poderi Oddero. In the amazingly graceful Vigna Rionda, from one of the region’s finest terroir, Oddero has crafted a genuine beauty in 2017 and I would suggest it isn’t far removed from the quality they delivered in the tremendous 2016 vintage; this should be a wine on your watch list if you a fan of the finest Barolo. The Bussia Vigna Mondoca showed in a similarly impressive manner; Bussia, in Monforte d’Alba, is a controversially large cru but when you taste wines of this calibre, there is no doubting that it has the potential to rank highly, depending on the exact location of the vines within the . Very rich, with a deep damson, plum quality to the fruit and hints of spice, this rich Barolo will demand patience, even in a year like 2017 where some wines are starting to drink. In this latter category, we would place Vietti’s reliable Castiglione blend and, surprisingly, Vajra’s 2017 Ravera, which seems to show very little of the austerity that is more typical of this cool, elevated Novello cru. The 2016 table certainly drew considerable attention, as clients were aware that this vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats. The 2016 vintage represented the perfect growing season with no excesses or problematic weather. These wines have such appealing fruit and fine tannin that a number show that they are already approachable though even the humblest from this vintage have ageing potential. The table was manned by Atlas’ Nick Pitcher, who commented that clients were impressed by the 2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra from Renato Corino on account of its expansive, rounded fruit. Renato has always made rich, softly textured wines and his entry level Barolo, principally made from young vines in Rocche del’ Annunziata, has always been considered by Atlas to be something of a bargain; the 2016 is no exception in this respect. Brovia’s Barolo 2016, from across their holdings, also impressed, making for an impressive showing on the night for this traditional producer when you consider how well their 2017s showed. The Brovia and Corino 2016s offer great value, a point borne out by client purchases! Parusso’s lesser known Mariondino from Castiglione Falleto also won favour with its intense fruit, with the touch of oak adding tobacco and vanillin notes, one of the few wines in the room to be aged in that manner. Nick also showed the component wines of Arnaldo Rivera’s Collector’s Case, as Nick said what a vintage for the cooperative of Terre del Barolo to launch a premium mixed case. Clients were fascinated to taste six different crus, each from one of six of the different communes of Barolo, all from the same producer, and from the same vintage. As one client commented ‘A great dinner party experience to be had tasting single cru Barolo at a bargain price!’. It is hard to argue with that. While the Arnaldo Rivera wines aren’t in the Premier League of Barolo, they are well made, approachable and provide a good introduction to understanding the single cru vineyards and the communes that make up the patchwork that is Barolo. Unsurprisingly, the lighter tannins and juicy red from on the Monvigliero impressed various tasters as did the richer, Vigna Rionda. The inclusion of the 2016 Neirane from Agostino Bosco sparked interest too, with many clients returning to the 2019 to refresh the comparison; the 2016 is just starting to drink as this vineyard possesses lighter soils with an element of sand, whereas the 2019 will need more patience. Then finally, we had a mixed table spanning the vintages from 2015 back to 2011, manned by Atlas’ Toby Herbertson. This table was a real draw as it allowed clients some insight into how Barolo ages; this was very much needed as some clients weren’t particularly familiar with the region. Some clients started tasting here, which might not have made it easier to move onto younger wines thereafter. The ability to compare wines from the same growers in 2011 and 2012 fascinated people and both vintages impressed. 2011 is one of those vintages that is starting to drink really well – it was a hot vintage, by the standards of that point in time, but it was wonderful to see how, if anything, the wines seem to have picked up a little more precision as they have aged. Both the Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 2011 and the Vietti Ravera 2011 found favour. The 2012 Sandrone, Le Vigne, shows just how well Sandrone adapt to vintage conditions. The 2013 Cappellano Pie Rupestris was very popular on the night; clients were impressed by the complexity and quality, though some struggled to spot the value in contrast to other wines shown. The conversation surrounding this table focused on when Barolo tannins start to soften and when wines come on stream for drinking. The lighter framed 2014s were up against it, sandwiched as they were between the more tannic 2013s and the bolder, richer 2015s. That said, many clients commented on the attractive nature of Vajra’s 2014 Ravera, which, like the 2017 of the same wine, showed in a forward drinking manner with a dark, glossy fruit, floral aromas and hints of spice. Indeed, all Vajra’s wines were complimented for their accessibility and the purity of the fruit. Finally, the two 2015s proved fascinating to taste. Giovanni Rosso’s Cerretta shows just why there is excitement brewing about this estate. It captured a flinty mineral note that added complexity to a rich palate of dark, slightly brooding fruit, while the tannins were finely expressed and far less obtrusive as they can be in young wines from this Serralunga d’Alba-based cru. Vietti’s inaugural Riserva also attracted plenty of attention; the extra ageing having softened and rounded out the tannins.All in all, the evening was a great success and we have received many positive comments on the venue and the format. We will certainly be running another event at this venue in the New Year.My final thoughts concern the way in which things have evolved in Piemonte. Climate change has meant that Barolo vintages face few of the pitfalls they once did. Instead, there are different challenges, more often than not related to heat and drought. In rapid time, growers have adapted in both the vineyard and cellar to meet these challenges, and today, I would argue, Barolo is one of the most consistent wine regions in Europe. There is just so much to explore, different crus with different altitudes, exposures and soils, as well as producers who employ different techniques. Without doubt, Nebbiolo is a sensitive grape variety that reveals different nuances in different conditions; it rivals Pinot Noir in this respect. Putting on a tasting like this allowed us to share our fascination with the wines and the region. Frankly there has never been a better time to buy Barolo – perhaps you could argue it is the last bastion of great value for finely nuanced reds In Europe. Certainly, £300 per case doesn’t get you far in Burgundy or Bordeaux, but it can get you an impeccably crafted, single vineyard Barolo. That point came across loud and clear to our audience on Wednesday night.
