2021 Carmignano Riserva, Piaggia:
'The sheer depth of the 2021 leave me in awe' Eric Guido 97 pts
It’s clear that Winemaker Silvia Vannucci is at the top of her game.
Eric Guido, vinous.com, January 2025
2021 Carmignano Riserva, Piaggia
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
Sometimes it is hard for words on a page to express how impressed I am with a given wine. The wine I am focusing on here is sublime and at a very affordable price for its quality; it puts a smile on my face that genuinely great wines need not break the bank.
I find so much value in Tuscany and as I have documented over the years, I have a firm interest in Sangiovese either in its pure form or in a blend. In the latter category, there are few better examples that the Carmignano Riserva from Mauro Vannucci. There is something about the fruit that I find incredibly striking – and Eric Guido has absolutely nailed it when he says that Silvia Vannucci is a winemaker at the top of her game. Sure, the fruit comes across impeccably ripe, but the extraction and handling preserve that abundant juiciness in the resultant wine.
A little background…..
You can be forgiven for not knowing much about the Carmignano DOCG despite its proximity to Florence – after all it covers around 110 hectares, divided among 20 or so different growers. So, simply put, it is roughly the same size as the vineyard of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, to put it into context. The estate was established in the 1970s by Mauro Vannucci, who was drawn to this location as he was convinced that he could produce a great Carmignano from this site, given its excellent exposure. The first vintage of Piaggia Carmignano Riserva that he produced was the 1991, and it was around this time that he supplemented the estate’s vineyard holding with an additional 15 hectares in a prime area near the centre of the Carmignano district. It is Mauro’s daughter, Silvia, who is the current owner of this 25-hectare estate, which comprises five different vineyard parcels.
The region benefits from a wide range in daily temperatures, on account of its proximity to the Apennines, which imparts a freshness to the resultant wines. The soils here are principally limestone, though the Vanuccis are intent on discovering new terroirs in the region where soils vary from sandy clay to Galestro or even those with layers of primary rock mixed with quartz. Piaggia remains the benchmark producer for the region and under Silvia Vanucci, they are focused on driving quality higher. The wines are based on the indigenous Sangiovese, with the Cabernets, Franc and Sauvignon, in support. These varieties are said to have been introduced to the area in the 16th century by Catherine de’ Medici when she became queen of France.
I have not had to revise my thoughts on this wine….in recent Tuscan vintages there has been an unerring consistency. It is the combination of ripeness and poise that impress, none more so than in the 2021. I think the quality and style are down to strong viticultural practices as much as shrewd winemaking decisions. You get the sense of a firm focus on quality with the aim to retain the exceptional quality of the fruit.
Eric Guido at vinous.com has scored the 2021 highly, and he and I are very much on the same page. Given the brightness of fruit, I think this will be a longer lived vintage, but it is just as appealing as the 2020 or 2019. What a trio of vintages these have proven to be for the estate! See my note below.
2021 Carmignano Riserva, Piaggia
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
This wine is the standard bearer for the estate and comes from an old vineyard near Poggetto, which is subject to rigorous selection. It is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot. Aged in French oak barriques for 18 months.
My note:
Bright garnet in the glass, the aromas here are compelling with a subtle floral note leading to a mélange of summer berries, fragrant, juicy, and wonderfully ripe. With air gently creamy notes emerge as do hints of autumnal leafiness. The texture is outstanding – this broad swathe of berry fruit is so beautifully expressed as the tannins are so finely ripe yet provide ample underpinning and direction. This is very classy indeed – cashmere like in texture. That same summer berry mix is present with notes of blueberry and loganberry to the fore, which pick up hints of spice to finish. This has all that exuberance that I love about this style coupled with a livelier , more minerally acidity that will make it a great prospect for cellarage. This is a wonder. (SL). 2027-2038.
97 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com, March 2025
The 2021 Carmignano Riserva Piaggia takes its time in the glass, tempting the imagination with dried violets and flowery underbrush that evolve into peppery wild berries, autumnal spices and a dusting of cocoa. Elegant and velvety in feel, this sweeps across the palate, gaining contrast through a core of mineral-inflected yet pleasantly ripe red and black fruits. Tantalizing acidity guides the experience. The 2021 finishes with dramatic length and concentration, leaving a bitter blackberry resonance to mingle with edgy tannins, while a hint of blood orange forces the mouth to water for more. The contrasting nature and sheer depth of the 2021 leave me in awe. Bury this deep in the cellar. Drink 2028-2040
Please let us know of your interest. If you follow our Italian recommendations, this is one you won’t want to miss.
Simon
simon.larkin@atlasfinewines.com