Romain Taupenot and his sister Virginie make multi-faceted wines with all the hallmarks of great Morey-Saint-Denis and impressive complexity from the outset. Jancis Robinson highlighted with the release of the 2014s that ‘they have a determination to make better wine every year’ and this situation has continued with another beautiful set of wines in 2016. As we have previously stated, Domaine Taupenot-Merme is increasing its relevance to fine Burgundy buyers year-on-year. They have 13.5 hectares across villages of Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-St. Georges as well as small parcels on the Côte de Beaune in Corton, St. Romain and Auxey-Duresses, all of which originally came from a different arm of the family.
Romain describes himself as a ‘vigneron paresseux’ – or a ‘lazy vigneron’. A modest and self-deprecating comment perhaps, but it does hint at his policy of minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery. It is clear that Romain believes that great wine is made in the vineyard; his vines are organically cultivated, a particularly challenging approach in 2016. But such respect of the soil and vine does see him expressing the true character of each vineyard with great clarity. The winemaking is unobtrusive; the use of oak is measured to allow Pinot’s aromatics to express themselves fully. Despite his insistence on a laid-back approach, he comes across as a grower intent on raising the bar and elevating the quality of his wines as well as the standing of his domaine. More than ever, the wines impress with their expressive aromatics and core of plush, textural fruit.
Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Chambolle-Musigny 2016
A restrained, elegant nose of ripe, red fruit with a fragrant floral lift gives way to a flowing palate. There is lovely freshness and vibrancy here and a juicy, perfumed persistence with a subtle mineral touch at the end. Drink 2018-2023
£220 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Morey-St Denis 1er Cru, La Riotte 2016
Beautiful purity of intense blue fruit on the nose here. A flowing attack is laced with mineral notes of limestone and gravel. A sweet fruit touch comes through with a lovely texture and a gentle creaminess. Juicy, blue fruit length. Drink 2020-2028
£395 per six bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2016
Restrained intensity of raspberry and black cherry fruit on a fluid palate of fresh length. There is energy here too keeping this expression of Pruliers poised and fresh. Succulent, moreish palate with a controlled mineral underpinning suggest a wine that, while approachable early, offers significant potential for ageing. Drink 2021- 2030
£395 per six bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru, Combe d'Orveaux 2016
Typically understated, this shows well-delineated mineral focus combined with a notably elegant red and black fruit nose with floral touches. A wine all about finesse and elegance. The long finish is remarkable for its focused vibrancy of intense black fruit. Drink 2020-2032
£465 per six bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016
A scented, fragrant lifted nose of blueberries and red cherry fruit with a subtle creamy edge. Firm but juicy structure here; both mouth-filling and mouth-watering. Darker berry fruit on a fine, stony, fruit-laden finish. Powerful and long. Drink 2020-2035
£735 per six bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016
The nose here is closed and less immediately expressive than the Charmes. But there is a great core of ripe, clean, pure, healthy fruit beneath. There is a voluptuous touch to the palate, too, a luxuriant quality so often found in the Mazoyères-Chambertin. The mineral core, encased by dark fruit, builds on the finish. Drink 2020-2035
£795 per six bottle case in bond