Establishing new, direct relationships is possibly one of the most enjoyable and rewarding aspects of what we do at Atlas; that feeling is intensified when the estate in question is a Burgundian domaine that we have been tracking for several vintages. We were overjoyed to get a late allocation of 2015s last year and yet more so to find ourselves continuing now with the 2016s. Domaine Latour-Giraud remains curiously under-the-radar. At least for now. As Antonio Galloni pointed out in 2014, ‘I’m not sure if Latour has yet been properly recognised as one of the most thoughtful and intelligent producers in the village.’ When the village in question is Meursault, this is high praise indeed.
The Domaine is managed by Jean-Pierre Latour, who first came to run the family-business in the 1990s and introduced a level of perfectionism and dedication that has seen the estate witness a ‘true cultural revolution’ according to the Review des Vins de France. Through a meticulous programme of cutting yields and by developing careful non-interventionist practices, quality at the estate has skyrocketed. Jean-Pierre creates powerful, complex and yet balanced and refined white Burgundy. He ferments free-run juice with wild yeasts, ages the Premier Cru partially in new barrels and ensures the maximum possible contact with lees. Fastidious attention in the cellars means that individual cru will be bottled when they are ready – this can vary greatly from site-to-site and vintage-to-vintage.
Having now tasted at the domaine a number of times, we have a great sense of elegant wines made with care and attention. They have all the typicity of great Meursault, displaying structure and concentration of fruit with effortless ease, but without the try-hard, flashier feel of some producers that might court praise. The majority of production at Domaine Latour-Giraud is white Burgundy from their impressive range of Premier Cru and Villages vineyards, with vines between 20 and 50+ years in age. The Domaine is the largest holder of the Genevrières Premier Cru vineyard at two hectares, but also boasts Premier Cru holdings in Les Charmes, Les Perrières, Les Bouchères, Le Poruzot and, just over the border into Puligny, Champs-Canet. The reds are equally worthy of attention, not always the case in a white-dominant cellar. We are delighted to be able to offer the domaine’s very fine Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Chênes.
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Bourgogne Chardonnay 2016
Juicy, sweet fruit nose and palate of peach, pear and apple. The finish has a gentle grip, pulling together the supple, appealing palate with a fresh grapefruit-suffused length. Drink 2018-2021
£170 per twelve bottle case in bond
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault, Les Narvaux 2016
The nose here shows leesy, smoky bacon aromas so typical of young Meursault but which give way to a delicate lime and white flower palate. This is delicate in its texture and elegant in its structure. The fruit is clean, fresh and vibrant and supported by a silky texture and a lovely salty tang at the end. Drink 2018-2024
£210 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1er Cru, Les Charmes 2016
Lovely mid-palate volume of ripe, pure fruit. Pulls to a taut ending. Great focus and precision. Textured. Juicy freshness combined with subtle yet powerful mineral expression. Drink 2020-2027
£310 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Champs Canet 2016
Immediately more green-tinged hue. Piercingly pure lime and white flower nose. Roundness of attack and lovely mineral focus. Drink 2020-2027
£320 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Meursault 1er Cru, Les Genevrières, Cuvée de Pierre 2016
Flint and bacon notes on nose. Again, it is the texture that defines the wine. Stony mineral drive with lacey, lemony tang. Elegant and fresh yet not without power. Drink 2020-2030
£380 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Latour-Giraud, Volnay 1er Cru, Clos des Chênes 2016
Perfumed, violet-scented nose with a deeply concentrated raspberry and loganberry fruit. This deep fruit core come through to the palate, where it also retains the floral elegance. Fresh, mouth-watering and with a lovely natural style, this is carefully expressed Volnay, allowing all the elegance of the commune to come through on a long finish of summer fruit freshness underscored by gently expressed, fine-grained tannins. A steal. Drink 2020-2030
£270 per six bottle case in bond