You can understand how it happens…A well-known Burgundian winemaker visits South Africa and becomes fascinated by a parcel of vineyard in Franschhoek. Roll the clock forward and you have the creation of Topiary Vineyards. Simon was pleased to be offering the 2015 Chardonnay at £95 per six bottles in bond and the 2015 Shiraz at £75 per six bottles in bond.
Philippe Colin, the winemaker, is renowned for producing some of the finest Chassagne-Montrachet back at home in Burgundy. His family has been making wine in Chassagne for generations and his wines are incredibly well-followed. As Neal Martin recently said:
‘Philippe Colin is a quiet, taciturn winemaker. He doesn't say too much, nothing more than necessary. But he's quietly gone and made some of the best wines that I tasted from Chassagne-Montrachet in 2014.’
Along with his business partner, Serge Jaczynski, Philippe bought 20 hectares of vineyard and a winery situated in the foothills of the Wemmershoak Mountains. Of the 20 hectares, they have two hectares of Chardonnay, eight hectares of Syrah/Shiraz and 10 of Cabernet Sauvignon.
It was, unsurprisingly, the Philippe Colin connection that led us to pursue the possibility of purchasing from this estate, and I am pleased to say that we were really impressed by the samples we received of the Chardonnay and the Syrah (we are yet to taste the Cabernet, which the estate will release at a later date). I should stress that the 2015s represent the first releases from Topiary Vineyards and quite frankly, the quality is surprising for such a young estate.
2015 Chardonnay, Topiary Vineyards
£95 per six bottles in bond
The Chardonnay vineyard lies above the cellar on some of the rockiest and poorest soils of the estate. Consequently, the fruit that this vineyard yields is remarkably concentrated. Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel after which the wine is transferred to 450 litre Roussouw barrels of which a quarter are new. Just 5,000 bottles are produced from the smallest of the estate’s vineyards.
The aromas here certainly reveal the hand of a Burgundian winemaker at work; notes of citrus oil, smoky bacon gently assert on the nose. The palate is centred on lively, zesty citrus fruits, ripe yet underscored by a fine, bright acidity. Distinctly limey to the finish, where the smoky, mineral nuances linger long into the finish. Impeccably balanced with the oak beautifully integrated. A remarkable debut vintage, but who would have expected anything else with Philippe Colin behind things? It will be interesting to see how this evolves, but I sense it will be at its peak after a couple of years in bottle. (Simon Larkin, MW) Drink: 2017 to 2021
2015 Shiraz, Topiary Vineyards
£75 per six bottles in bond
The Shiraz undergoes a short cold-soak before fermentation to assist with the extraction. It is bottled unoaked in order to retain the freshness and perfume. 13,000 bottles have been produced in this first vintage.
Suitably deep in the glass with a youthful purple hue. The aromas here are of scented dark damson, juicy fruit with hints of white pepper and herb. There is an appealing juicy quality to the palate, which whilst medium-bodied is exuberant and expressive. Those juicy dark fruit characters of loganberry, damson show a pleasing intensity with a supple accent. This is really attractive at its current age and is made to be early drinking. What is striking here is the purity of the fruit; the emphasis is on juicy ripe fruit and none of those overplayed savoury that obscure certain Syrah on the Cape are on show at all. (Simon Larkin, MW) Drink: 2017 to 2022
These are two very impressive wines. Given the winemaking pedigree, perhaps the Chardonnay was always destined to impress but the Shiraz – a variety that is well-suited to the Cape – offers up an appealing, fruit forward style. I would suggest this modest-sized estate is going to be one to follow over the next few years as these offerings are blessed with more than a touch of class.