We often forget just how vast the region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape actually is. This famous wine region, situated to north of Avignon covers a huge 25 square kilometres. A region of such a size, producing over 100,000 hectolitres of wine per annum, is sure to encompass variation in style as well as quality.
Despite the generalisations made about this famous wine style, it makes you wonder just how many examples deliver what you might expect of a great Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Differing sites, differing approaches to winemaking and differing blends of grape varieties all create a fascinating diversity. That said, Châteauneuf-du-Pape produces a considerable volume of acceptable if banal examples.
It is, however, possible to find head turning examples at sensible prices from talented winemakers. One such example would be the outstanding 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Giraud. I have praised this brother and sister team on innumerable occasions since I first visited in 2006 so I will be succinct here; I honestly believe they are making the finest wines in the region and have been doing so over the last three to four years. What is more, it is their tradition cuvée (their entry level Châteauneuf-du-Pape) that impresses me the most. Yes, they do produce exceptional super cuvées from old vine parcels on specific terroirs in small quantities that are sought after by collectors and championed by critics, but for me the Tradition encompasses everything that great Châteauneuf is about. Gloriously complex, generous in fruit without being at all heady, and with a purity and precision that is uncommon to so many examples. Jeb Dunnuck, author of a definitive book on Châteauneuf and a contributor to Robert Parker’s website, shares my enthusiasm. As he says, this is ‘knockout stuff’…
This 2011 has recently just hit its stride and is drinking beautifully now – it was always likely to be more forward drinking than the more structured 2010. I must confess that I had forgotten just how highly I rated this wine until we opened a bottle this week. It is no exaggeration to say that it would be a real struggle, if not nigh on impossible, to source a similarly priced Châteauneuf to match up to this quality.
2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tradition. Domaine Giraud
93 points, Jeb Dunnuck, on erobertparker.com
£115 per 6 bottle case in bond (the best price in the UK Market)
Along the same lines, the smoking good 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is a blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre, from 50-to-80-year-old vines, with the Grenache and Mourvedre aged all in concrete and the Syrah in 2-to-6-year-old barrels. Knockout stuff, with sweet black currants, cassis, licorice, pepper and wild herbs, this full-bodied, supple and seamlessly textured beauty will drink nicely through 2021. Drink now-2021. This is a terrific lineup of wines by the brother and sister team of Marie and Francois Giraud. Their 2011s are certainly near the top of the vintage.