Towards the end of last week we bought a parcel of 2008 Barolo from Conterno-Fantino, a lesser known producer who has quietly been receiving glowing praise from a number of critics. Antonio Galloni recently commented that Conterno-Fantino is ‘one of a handful of properties that deliver outstanding quality throughout their entire range’ and we can offer the 2008 Barolo, Vigna del Gris, at £240/12 bottles in bond.
Based in Monforte d’Alba, Conterno-Fantino is run by a father and son duo, Guido and Fabio Fantino, who have gained a reputation for producing Barolo that can be broached in youth yet still age well. Their signature style encompasses traditional elements of winemaking but more than nods towards a modern approach to Barolo, resulting in round, plush, beautifully polished styles with plenty of finesse. The fruit for ‘Vigna del Gris’ comes from the historic Ginestra cru of Monforte d’Alba, a well-exposed vineyard with a sandy-based soil that highlights elegance and perfume. The wine was aged in French barriques for two years and then in bottle for one further year prior to release. I should add that 2008 was a very fine vintage for Barolo. Given the cool conditions, the Nebbiolo was harvested late, allowing for full ripeness to be achieved, yet it is the freshness and poise that really impresses in 2008.
It is an understatement to suggest that this is something of a bargain price for a cru Barolo. It is highly unusual to be able to place a bottle of this calibre on the table at just £26.46 inc VAT. The offer seemed too good to be true so we grabbed 20 cases which I offer on a ‘first come, first served’ basis. I will stress that this is easily the best price for this wine in the UK market by some considerable distance and is also the best price in Europe.
The estate suggests that the 2008 Vigna del Gris can be broached five years on from vintage, so it might be worth taking delivery soon and enjoying the case over the next five to seven years.
2008 Barolo, Vigna del Gris, Conterno-Fantino
£240 per 12 bottles in bond
93 points, Antonio Galloni
The 2008 Barolo Vigna del Gris is gorgeous. Layers of dark red fruit, flowers, spices and minerals emerge as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2008 possesses lovely mid-palate pliancy and juiciness, along with beautifully integrated tannins and exceptional polish. Floral notes add lift and brightness. I especially like the energy here. This is an especially open vintage for the Vigna del Gris. I don't see the 2008 making old bones, but it will be delicious over the next 10-12 years, give or take. 2015-2025
94 points, Stephen Tanzer
Good full red. High-pitched perfume of blackcurrant and rose petal. Then wonderfully sweet and deep, with superb inner-mouth energy and lift to its dark berry and floral flavors. Wonderfully elegant and suave Barolo with a light touch. Finishes with very firm but high-quality tannins and outstanding length and lift. The wine's acidity of around 6 grams hides its 14.5% alcohol.