Smith Haut Lafitte is the latest 2015 to release today. Simon and the rest of the team have followed this estate closely over the last few years and have been impressed with developments.
Smith Haut Lafitte has always had an enviable reputation for its remarkably fine white, which is almost always among the top handful of white Graves in any given vintage. When you consider that Haut-Brion Blanc and La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc usually occupy positions one and two at dramatically higher prices, this is praise indeed. I was seriously impressed by the 2015 white – it showed remarkably pure, lively fruit with an inherent mineral vein. I can’t recall a young vintage that has impressed this much – it will drink well early but could be aged for a decade or more.
As to the red, it has come on dramatically since the 2000 vintage; a couple of tastings with the proprietors, the Cathiard family, last year highlighted this beautifully. So is the 2015 a finer wine than the 2005? I think I would prefer to drink the 2015 in time . I think it shows far greater poise and balance. In my note below I commented on ‘tighter lines’ to suggest it had a more classical structure. The Cathiards have invested heavily in the estate and the increase in precision and quality has been notable under the direction of winemaker Fabien Teitgen. Smith Haut Lafitte’s red used to be termed a touch modern; it might be a polished style, but I am pleased with the greater sense of place and sophistication that has been expressed in recent years. The 2015 underlined once more what a fine vintage 2015 is in Pessac-Léognan.
Prices are up on last year here, but I am convinced by the quality on show. We have opted to purchase in six bottle cases to allow clients to pick up a half case if desired.
Red
2015 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
(95-97), points, Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
£310 per 6 bottle case in bond
The 2015 Smith Haut Lafitte is adorned with a special label to celebrate the 650th anniversary of the château and the 25th vintage made under the ownership of Daniel and Florence Cathiard. It is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, picked between 23 September until 12 October with the Cabernet Franc. Matured in 65% new oak (although technical director Fabien Teitgen mentioned that he could have added more if he felt it would benefit), it has a very intense, blueberry and crème de cassis scented bouquet, a touch more opulent than its peers with hints of freshly shucked oyster shell developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin couched in gorgeous, satin-textured black cherry and cassis fruit, tinged with cedar and pencil shavings. It lingers very long and sensually in the mouth, completing a sophisticated and powerful Smith Haut-Lafitte that should age in splendid fashion. 2025-2050
And my note: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Another fine showing from SHL. Offering scented aromas of fresh cherry as well as admirable ripeness. The palate is packed with a markedly velvety texture and fine-grained tannins. This represents a strong vintage for the estate; there is a tautness to the structure, with expressive ripe fruit offset wonderfully by the freshness inherent in the best 2015s. Beautifully balanced and on tighter lines than normal. Drink 2020-2038
White
2015 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc
(94-96) points, Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
£320 per 6 bottle case in bond
The 2015 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Sauvignon Blanc matured in 50% new oak. It has a crisp, conservative bouquet, tightly wound at first, reticent even, though with a couple of minutes' swirling, it reveals intense fresh lime flower, pink grapefruit, guava and blood orange scents. The palate is extremely well balanced with a silver bead of acidity, a dab of sour lemon than cleanses the mouth, followed by pink grapefruit, citrus lemon and green apple notes towards the long finish. This is another outstanding white Smith Haut Lafitte from winemaker Fabien Tietgen and the famille Cathiard. 2019-2035.
And my note : 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. Revealing terrifically pure grapefruit, peach and citrus on the nose, the palate follows in a similar fashion. What is striking here is the clarity and intensity... the palate is taut and lively and simply refuses to fade on the finish. A striking example of a wine that rarely gains the attention it deserves. Drink 2019-2033
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