Simon has just returned from tasting 2015 Bordeaux and has also recently had the opportunity to revisit a number of 2010s, 2011s and 2012s. One property that is going to draw greater attention in the market is Château Haut-Bailly. We are offering the 2012 at £275 per 6 bottle case in bond.
The estate has been firing since the impressive 2005 vintage, chalking up a notable success in the more challenging 2006 vintage too. In 2009, they produced a remarkable example; it is ripe, generous but fine-tuned. They followed it up with a more structural but equally impressive 2010 and a 2011 of a quality not common to that vintage. The 2015 Haut-Bailly which I tasted last week is exceptionally fine – a really beautiful expression of finely ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Their 2012, which I offer here, is stunning and highlights the success of the vintage in the Graves. The terroir is – as ever – the key; 30 hectares of vineyard on a complex base of sand and gravel over limestone.
Given the profile that is building for the 2015 vintage, and the remarkable success of Haut-Bailly, I am expecting the price to step up considerably when the 2015 release comes in May. The quality to price ratio of Haut-Bailly has been favourable for some considerable time and I wouldn’t begrudge them an increase to capitalise on their rich vein of form. Back in the day, this age old estate, whose roots date back to 1430, was renowned for the quality of its wines over above many of the more illustrious Châteaux of today. As wine critic, Jeff Leve, comments on his website‘In fact, for a period of time Chateau Haut Bailly sold for as much as much money as the First Growths that started at the end of the 19th century continuing into the 1940’s in some vintages!’.
Having tasted various recent vintages in the last couple of months, I would certainly advise clients to pick up a six bottle case or two of the 2012. It will drink a touch earlier than the richer vintages as there is a supple accent that is appealing even in a young wine. While stylistically different to vintages such as 2005 (£425/6), 2009 (£800/6) and 2010 (£450/6), it is frankly just a whisker away from that level of quality and is very much a smart money buy. Given that the estate’s wines are incredibly age-worthy, the more forward nature is welcome; the 2012 will drink well from 2020 onwards for at least a decade of two.
It is a difficult wine to assess young in many vintages as there is often a youthful firmness to the structure. Robert Parker was certainly surprised when he tasted it from bottle as opposed to barrel – he upgraded it from (91-93) points to 96 points, commenting as follows:
2012 Château Haut-Bailly
96 points, Robert Parker
£275 per 6 bottle case in bond
The classic 2012 Haut-Bailly is staggeringly great wine, with a stunning bouquet of lead pencil shavings, blueberries, black raspberries and blackcurrants and perhaps a touch of spring flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with an almost seamless integration of wood, alcohol and tannin. It is rich, concentrated, stunningly supple, pure and a total hedonistic and intellectual turn-on. This wine defines what is meant by intensity of flavor, but it is light on its feet, à la great cuisine. It should be drinkable reasonably young, but age effortlessly for 25-30 years. One of the great shining superstars of Pessac-Léognan has been the ascent of Haut-Bailly under the ownership of Robert Wilmers, an American, and his winemaking team lead by Véronique Sanders. Readers checking the database of the Wine Advocate will note that the 2009 has been elevated to a perfect score, which is of course not surprising, since it started off with a 98-point rating.
I concur with Parker on this one, I underestimated this early in its life, it impressed greatly at our Bordeaux tasting in March.