Antonio Moretti, Orma, Bolgheri 2012

‘Antonio Moretti's Orma seems to keep getting better with each passing vintage’ – Simon remembers reading these words, written by Antonio Galloni before he headed to Vinitaly last year. These comments encouraged Simon and our buyer, Vicki, to track down this emerging Super Tuscan for the first time.

This relatively small vineyard – just seven hectares – is a new project, purchased in 1996 by Antonio Moretti. Located about 90 kilometers southwest of Florence, the property lies in the central Bolgheri district of Castagneto Carducci. Most interesting of all is that the estate neighbours the far more well-known Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. Moretti’s ambition was clear from the outset, and he duly planted Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, all of which have been proven to thrive in the coastal Tuscan climate.

Since the inaugural release, the 2005 vintage, Orma has had a dramatic rise to prominence. Despite Moretti’s aspirations, early vintages showed in a more obvious style; although rich and concentrated they lacked precision and finesse. Since 2007, however, the steps forward have been noticeable with greater consistency from one vintage to the next. This is entirely normal for a young vineyard and a new winemaking team as it takes time to fine tune an approach. What is quite extraordinary is to note just how impressive the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages are.  In only its eighth vintage, Orma is winning serious plaudits from major critics, with James Suckling commenting recently that the 2012 posed a challenge to both Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Whether or not you attribute such comments to journalistic enthusiasm, there is no doubting the strides forward made by this estate nor the value it currently offers. At £325 per 12 bottle case in bond, it is considerably cheaper than Ornellaia which in the 2012 vintage trades for £1050 per 12 bottle case.
 
Antonio Moretti is not just the owner of a wine estate, he is a successful businessman, having made his fortune in luxury goods, fashion and property. He has embarked on a project that is all about quality, from the set-up of the vineyard  through to the winemaking approach and the consultant employed.  Given the start that this estate has made in a short space of time it is clear that it is one to watch. If Moretti delivers on his ambitions for this small Bolgheri vineyard, then future vintages should pose a more legitimate challenge to the established Super Tuscans. To our minds, the 2012 is the finest vintage produced to date with a finer, sleeker impression that the 2011 which hinted at a more turbulent growing season. 2012 delivered fine results in much of Bolgheri, with the clayey-based soils retaining and then releasing early season moisture through the hot, dry summer that typifies this vintage. This is a very attractive Merlot-driven blend with considerable richness of fruit, yet an overall impression of elegance. In today’s market, this offers superb value.
 
2012 Orma, Moretti
96 points, James Suckling
£325 per 12 bottle case in bond
Lots of blackcurrants and blackberry aromas and flavors with hints of bark and mushrooms. Full-bodied, chewy and rich. A powerful red with plenty of structure and depth. This Bordeaux blend from Bolgheri is a challenger to Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Better in 2018.